It does little good to spend a lot of time and money in preparing for difficult times if you don’t also plan on securing those supplies  against the very threats you are preparing for.   Severe social dislocations caused by war, economic problems, or widespread natural disasters are almost always accompanied by looting, theft, and increased criminal behavior—sometimes in large mobs that even police cannot control.  We need to plan ahead on how to deal with those threats without resorting to violent confrontations, which should be a last resort.

We also have to consider government’s propensity to confiscate stored supplies when in short supply.  There is still a 1950’s law on the books that gives the government the power to declare anything in short supply as “hoarding.”   In the March 3, 2012 edition of my World Affairs Brief,  I covered the relevant sections with the Defense Production Act of 1950 that affect personal storage:


In order to prevent hoarding , no person shall accumulate (1) in excess of the reasonable demands of business, personal, or home consumption, or (2) for the purpose of resale at prices in excess of prevailing market prices, materials which have been designated by the President as scarce materials or materials the supply of which would be threatened by such accumulation.”

The wording implies that the government is taking action against those that start to hoard for profit once something gets scarce in a crises, but notice that there is no provision for acknowledging or exempting stockpiles that were accumulated before something was declared scare.  That’s what is dangerous about this wording. And there are severe penalties for getting caught “hoarding,” regardless of when your supplies were purchased:

“Sec. 103. PENALTIES [50 U.S.C. App. § 2073] Any person who willfully performs any act prohibited, or willfully fails to perform any act required, by the provisions of this title or any rule, regulation, or order thereunder, shall, upon conviction, be fined not more than $10,000 or imprisoned for not more than one year, or both.”  

As you can see, it is wise to prepare to conceal your supplies from government as well as from desperate people who may turn to looting and theft in order to survive.

In this article, I’m going to talk about strategies for concealment rather than specific designs—which have to be customized to each specific situation, and shouldn’t be published anyway, lest they become compromised.

Remember too that you must be prepared to secure people as well as your supplies.  Social unrest and even government may be a threat to your person as well, and your supplies won’t do you any good if you are dead.   A well designed safe room can provide for both protection of people and your essential supplies if they have temporary living facilities included for an emergency where you may need to get out of harm’s way.

Principle 1: Select the space for a secret room where that space isn’t obvious without detailed measurements.   I’m not talking about concealing the entrance here, but rather picking a space within a cluster of rooms where one can’t tell easily that there is unaccounted space somewhere in the middle.  Large homes are more amenable to hiding a room in a complex of other rooms, where in the presence of several twists and turns of hallways, it’s impossible to keep track of where you are, let alone the size of rooms around you.

For smaller homes, let’s suppose you have two rooms of equal size along a common wall, and the doorway to each room opens from a common hallway.  You want to create a secret narrow room within one or both rooms.  If you shorten the back wall of one room and not the other, someone opening the door of each room and looking in at the back wall can easily tell that the wall of one room is closer than the other.  But if you put the secret narrow room between the two rooms (shortening both rooms equally), no one can tell that there is extra space between the adjoining walls of both rooms without measuring.

It’s even easier to conceal a secret room in a basement if you carve out space under the garage or an outside deck since no one expects there to be basement space under these two structures.   This is easier and less labor intensive if done during initial construction of the home, but the down side is that the space shows up on the building plans on file with the county or city.  If you do it as a remodeling, shoring up and excavating by hand, the better your chances are of doing this in total privacy.

Principle 2: Make sure you can get to your secret room quickly and privately.   It does little good to have a secret room (for either storage or personal safety), if you can’t get to it easily and in private, both for loading in supplies and to access in a crisis when others may be watching.  This is one of my main objections to backyard buried shelters, with a hatch type door in the ground in the back yard that is your only entrance. People can observe not only the burial of the shelter during construction, but your many trips back and forth loading it with supplies.  When you need to get inside during a crisis, don’t be surprised if the entrance is surrounded by people wanting inside too.

Even if designed inside of a house (which I prefer), I like to design the home in such a way as to get to the safe room or concealed storage room without transiting open rooms, front hallways or main staircases. In an intrusion, your access to those public areas may be compromised, so you need to provide alternate access.  If you have a home without a basement, try to carve out space near your master bedroom so you can gain access easily without venturing outside the safety of your room.

In two-story homes, I also like to design ladder wells where kids can get down to the parent’s master bedroom without using the stairs, and from there to the shelter.  Building codes don’t like penetrations through floors, so sometimes you have to do this after the home is finished, as a minor remodel.

If your secure room is in the basement, try to devise a trap door entrance from your bedroom closet that gets you directly down to the basement without using the stairs.  That requires some sort of ladder, but my preferred way is to design a trap door from a master bedroom closet that comes down over a set of basement shelves where I can use the beefed up shelf edges as a ladder.  I simply design the front reinforced edge of the shelf as a 1” x 2” board that protrudes above the shelf rather than below, giving me a handhold as I climb up or down.

Principle 3:  Use double concealed entrances where possible:  Whenever possible in my design of high security homes, I like to have a concealed storage room or closet in front of any safe room.  Both rooms have concealed entrances.  The would-be intruder has to find not just one secret entrance, but two, and the latter is unlikely because once the first room is found the person thinks, “I’ve found it.”

This is especially effective if you do keep some “throwaway” valuables in the first room to give some sense of satisfaction.  Naturally, you shouldn’t use the same type of concealed entrance scheme for the first room as with the second one.

Principle 4:  Think outside the normal:  The previous idea is an example of designing concealed entrances that fool people.  So is placing a basement below a garage where people don’t usually expect to find one.  But you can get even more sneaky by providing the entrance to a concealed room on the floor above or below.  Now, that’s hard for people to conceive of, let alone discover.

Principle 5:  Keep the number of persons involved small:   Constructing secure rooms is difficult to accomplish with any privacy if you have to hire it done.  The more you can do yourself, the better in terms of keeping them from being known to others.  It’s even worth learning new skills than taking the easy way out and hiring it done.  Now, I realize that is not possible with many people, so if you need to hire something down, use an older handyman rather than a big contractor who is going to bring in hired labor—which are mostly young guys who talk about any new they are doing.

If you are doing something with new construction that involves building permits and a contractor, design the basic structure of the rooms, but label them as storage.  Finish out the rooms and build the concealed entrances after the occupancy permit is issued when you can remodel  or finish in privacy.  During the building process, you may observe one or more workers that are a cut above the others, who you may be able to hire on the side to do addition work later.

  • NobodysaysBOO

    the old Vietcongs did it cheap and good, tunnels everywhere traps everywhere.